Bordeaux

Chateau de Fargues- Lur Saluces, Saturnes 2003. Rich golden color, spicey and intense bouquet of pineapple, apricot and pear with a hint of vanilla oak – lovely! Full bodied flavor, not sugary sweet, more like balanced richness with acidity and complex fruit flavors such as dried mango. Made mostly from the Semillon grape in late harvest after having formed the “noble rot” or botrytis which gives Sauternes its characteristic sweetness, there is also Sauvignon Blanc, Gris and Muscadelle. De Fargues is an unfiltered wine and does not use additives to increase the sugar level during the fermentation process. The finish is long on the palette, and savory with a pleasant dryness that comes from walnuts (or even tobacco) which nicely balances the sweet fruit. The depth of intensity and viscosity is very close in my estimation to the infamous Chateau D’Yquem, though I haven’t had either of these wines since the 1970, 1971 and 1975 vintages when I could afford to drink them regularly. At the time I was quite famiiar with both of these Chateaux and the ’03 De Fargues is an exceptional vintage. At the end, the aromatics of an empty glass speak eloquently to the brilliance and uniqueness of great Sauternes. 95.  11/2011

Bastor Lamontagne Sauternes 1983. Deep amber color, like a good cognac. It takes time to open up. Very closed at first, an hour or so later the fruit comes forward and the finish becomes more rounded and tasteful. Who says “white wine don’t age” ?? Aromas of caramel and spice with a good dose of botrytis (nobel rot). Flavors of honey, walnuts, red oranges and citrus fruits, good acidity and not too sweet. A bit of marsala comes through but the bright acidity keeps it from being cloying or flat. A real interesting surprise from an almost 30 year old wine. Read more about Bastor Lamontagne. A well priced Sauternes (I paid 10.99 back in the day). 1/2012


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